Dog-friendly Alentejo

This is a short, easy countryside hike near Évora. At the end is what's considered the largest megalithic tomb in Portugal. Aba loved the freedom and all the sniffing, and we never met another person or dog. Bring your own water, because the stream was dry. On our summer visit a wildfire had burnt much of the landscape. We'd save this walk for spring or late autumn.

Campo Maior is a small border town in the Alentejo with narrow whitewashed streets, a bone chapel and a castle. The history is worth coming for, but it is not a very paw-friendly place. There are very few green spaces, and there were loose dogs on the way to the castle. We see it as a short stop, not a full day out with a dog.

Forte da Graça sits on a hill just outside Elvas, and we think it is well worth the trip with a dog. When we visited, dogs were allowed inside, so Aba explored the fortress with us. We didn't have to take turns waiting outside with him. It was clean and paw-friendly, with lots of natural shade, and everyone was kind to him. There is also room outside the walls for a relaxed short walk.

Barragem do Caia is our favourite lake in Alentejo and Extremadura. It is a big reservoir near Campo Maior, and we reach it by a rough gravel track. Aba can get into the water almost everywhere, and we have never met other dogs there. The catch is the cows and horses that roam freely, and the muck they leave behind. Your dog has to stay calm around livestock, and you should plan on a shower afterwards.

Évora is beautiful and we think it is worth visiting. For us it worked best as a compact day trip. With a dog it is not the most dog-friendly city stop. The historic center has only a few small parks, so Aba had nowhere to run or cool off. Most of the sights are for humans only. The good news: the streets are clean and easy on paws, and there are nice walks and hikes outside the city.

Praia das Furnas is a beach near Vila Nova de Milfontes on the Alentejo coast. It sits where the Mira River meets the Atlantic, below some very dramatic cliffs. For Aba it was a long walk on paw-friendly sand, with space to run and water to splash in. There is almost no shade, and the sea is wild, so we treat it as a beach for splashing, not swimming. Across the river we found a kayak rental that let Aba come along. We think it is definitely worth a visit.

Barragem de Montargil is a beautiful lake. It still wasn't one of our favourite lake spots in Portugal. Access was harder than we expected, and we only found one short hike. At the end of May we were covered in bites, and we pulled several big ticks off Aba after every walk. Aba loved the forest and the warm, muddy water. For us, it was better to look at than to spend time at.

Jardim das Portas do Sol is a garden inside the old city walls of Santarém, with one of the best views in the region. We came in summer with Aba and found it the perfect stop. It has shade, room for a gentle walk and two restaurants where you can take a proper break. It is a small park and not a wild adventure. It's a calm city escape with a big view.

Praia do Malhão is a long, wild beach on the Alentejo coast, right on the Fishermen's Trail. The cliffs are folded and very old. We walked here with Aba for about 30 minutes, and we also swam and went bodyboarding. Plenty of people walk their dogs off-leash here, and sometimes riders come by on horses. There is almost no natural shade, so bring water and your own shade on hot days. We didn't find any glass on the sand.

Porto Covo is a tiny village on the wild Alentejo coast. We stayed two weeks with Aba and never got tired of it. You get cliff paths on the Fishermen's Trail, bays you reach down steep stairs, and restaurants that welcomed Aba everywhere we went. There are catches. The one hotel we mention caps dogs at 20 kilos, the village has no vet or pet store, and you really need a car. Bring dog food and book early.