Babacashee
The village and the stairs down to the bays
Porto Covo is really small. There is a main street with some shops and restaurants, and a little square with a church. A businessman designed the town from scratch in the late 1700s, hoping it would become a major port. That plan never really worked out, but it is why the square looks so tidy today. Most of the sightseeing is nature, though. Every bay has its own caverns, cliffs and beach.
Getting down to the bays means using what we call the stairs of death. They are steep, and some are old and narrow with no rails in places. That shouldn't put you off the bays. With a dog you have two options. Either let him off the leash to take the stairs at his own pace, or practise steep, narrow stairs with him beforehand so he doesn't pull you down.
Eating out with Aba
There are small restaurants serving local Portuguese food on the main street and at the Baia de Porto Covo. We thought the food there was nice but not great, and quite expensive. We preferred La Bella Vita, which has tasty Italian food at normal prices. Aba was scared the first time we went, and the staff worked hard to make friends with him and make him feel comfortable.
Another good option is the restaurant and hotel Mute. The view from the seating area upstairs is stunning and the food is really good. Aba was very welcome there too. It is on the pricier side. In general, Aba was welcome everywhere we ate in Porto Covo.
The Fishermen's Trail: cliffs and dunes
Walking is where Porto Covo really shines. The Fishermen's Trail starts right from the village. The cliff paths are usually wide and quiet, with some of the best views in Portugal. It's safer to keep your dog on the leash for much of it, because the trail often runs right along steep cliffs. In the sandy dunes we let Aba roam free and didn't worry about it.
The hikers you meet here usually have proper gear because they are walking the whole trail. We were there in October and it was mostly sunny and warm, so we walked in sandals. To be fair, we only walked a few kilometres to the nearby beaches. That is different from doing long stretches of the trail in one go.
Our favourite beaches: Praia do Malhão and Praia de Samouqueira
Our favourite beach is Praia do Malhão, about 20 minutes' drive from Porto Covo. At low tide you can walk from bay to bay, and even across to the next beach. In October the sea was still good for swimming. Aba loves it because you can climb the dunes and walk part of the Fishermen's Trail as well. He got to run, sniff, jump into the waves and chase his ball.
At high tide you can climb over a rocky stretch at the first bay to reach the longer part of Praia do Malhão. There are also stairs that go straight down to that part, but we missed them on our first visit. You will meet people and dogs on the beach. On the dune trail above, we very rarely met other dogs, so it might be an option if your dog doesn't like meeting others.
Our second favourite is Praia de Samouqueira, a wild bay full of spooky caverns. To walk there, start at Praia Grande and walk through the next bays at low tide. Take the stairs up at the last bay, then follow the road to Praia de Samouqueira. It takes about 30 minutes.
Further afield: Sines and Vila Nova de Milfontes
The only area we didn't enjoy much was north of Sines. Sines is a small town with an oil refinery and several petrochemical plants. The old harbour and the small beach there are quite nice. Overall, though, the town and the beaches north of it weren't our favourite. For a change of scene, we drove 30 minutes to Vila Nova de Milfontes, which has a nice bay and beach.
In Vila Nova de Milfontes you can rent paddle boards, surfboards and kayaks. We took Aba kayaking there for the first time. We didn't expect him to go for it, but he was brave and climbed on board. One thing to keep in mind: in high season, dogs are officially not allowed on most beaches.
Where to stay and getting around
Finding a hotel that takes a big dog was hard here too. The Porto Covo Praia Hotel and Spa accepts dogs, but only up to 20 kilos, and it charges a dog fee every night. There are plenty of dog-friendly holiday flats and houses, some with extra fees and some without. We stayed at Casa do Bairro by Estilo Lusitano in the middle of the village. We paid nothing extra for Aba, and the house was spacious and nice.
There are a few small grocery shops in the village, but no pet store and no vet. For either, you have to drive to Sines or Vila Nova de Milfontes. You really need a car. The village is easy to walk around, but public transport to the trail access points is limited. A car also gets you to the quieter bays a little further north or south.
Good to know
- There is no pet store in Porto Covo, so stock up on dog food before you arrive.
- One way to handle the steep, narrow stairs down to the bays is to practise them with your dog.
- Book your accommodation early. The one hotel we mention caps dogs at 20 kilos.
- At Praia do Malhão and on the walk to Praia de Samouqueira, low tide lets you walk from bay to bay.
Porto Covo with a dog: questions
Where can we eat with a dog in Porto Covo?
In Porto Covo, Aba was welcome everywhere we went, and every restaurant had space outside where he could relax while we ate. We'd recommend La Bella Vita, with really good Italian food at normal prices. The restaurant and hotel Mute has a great view from the upstairs seating area and good food, but it costs more.
Should my dog be on a leash on the Fishermen's Trail near Porto Covo?
We'd say yes for most of the Fishermen's Trail near Porto Covo. Long stretches run right along steep cliffs. In the sandy dune sections, we were comfortable letting Aba off the leash to roam freely.
Are there dog-friendly places to stay in Porto Covo?
The Porto Covo Praia Hotel and Spa allows dogs, but only up to 20 kilos, and it charges 25 euros per night for a dog. Porto Covo has lots of holiday flats and houses that welcome dogs. Some charge extra fees and some don't. We stayed at Casa do Bairro by Estilo Lusitano in the middle of the village and paid nothing extra for Aba.
Is there a vet or pet store in Porto Covo?
No. Porto Covo has no vet and no pet store, just small local grocery shops. For a vet or a pet store you would have to drive to Sines or Vila Nova de Milfontes, so bring enough dog food with you.
Are dogs allowed on the beaches around Porto Covo in high season?
During high season, dogs are officially not allowed on most beaches around Porto Covo. Keep that in mind when you plan beach days with your dog.