Babacashee
Why we use Olhão as our Algarve base
Some of the better-known resort towns are not always easy with Aba. Olhão is different. It is a small, busy town, and it feels welcoming to us and to Aba. The centre is easy to explore on foot. If you want to see more of the Algarve, you really need a car. Faro is only about 15 minutes' drive away.
Where to stay: Airbnb, not hotels
We found no hotels in town that take dogs. There are some nice Airbnb rentals at fair prices, though. We always rent the flats next to the Real Marina Hotel. They are spacious and have a balcony, and Aba loves watching people walk by from up there. But the dog fee is charged per night, so a long stay gets expensive. The flats also book out quickly.
Other Airbnbs around Olhão allow dogs, and some charge a lower dog fee or none at all. They just take more searching. Our advice is to start looking early and read the small print about extra fees for your dog.
The Salinas de Olhão: a quick loop close to the centre
The Salinas are very close to the city centre, but they feel like proper nature. The entrance now has places to sit and a small beach-like area. That makes it an easy place to start slowly and let Aba sniff around. For him, this is a great Olhão walk, with lots of smells, open paths and space to run.
The loop is short, about 30 minutes. It works well as a first walk in the morning or a last one in the evening. There is almost no shade, and we have seen glass and rubbish along the way. Only let your dog off the lead if they are calm around joggers and cyclists. Birders, bring the big lens. You might even spot flamingos.
The big caveat is rain. When it rains, the path gets so muddy that you cannot walk it. One of us once lost a shoe out there. The Salinas are also one of the only longer, easy nature walks in town, so when they are too muddy, your options for walking the dog get very limited.
The islands: Armona and Culatra
The islands are what make Olhão special. Armona is the shorter trip, about 25 minutes by ferry. The Culatra ferry takes about 40 minutes and stops twice. There is one important rule. Your dog can only board the ferry in a transport box, and they have to stay in it for the whole ride.
Speedboats don't need a box. But they are loud, there is no way to strap your dog in, and Aba hated the noise. So we carried his huge box onto the ferry and locked it to a fence on the island. That way we didn't have to carry it all day.
From the ferry stops, you walk through small villages to reach the beach. Local dogs roam free there and can be territorial, so keep your dog on the lead until you reach the sand. Walk a kilometre or two away from the ferry and the beach is almost empty. That works even for reactive dogs or dogs without a strong recall.
Mainland beaches and rainy days
Olhão has no beach of its own, but there are plenty within a short drive. Dogs are technically not allowed on beaches in high season. We found that if you keep your dog on the lead, you can usually walk through the guarded areas to quieter spots. There is also an unwritten rule. If you see a dog on a lead, put yours on a lead too until you have passed.
When it rains, the Salinas turn to mud and the ferry has no shelter. That is when we take the car. Fuseta is good for a shorter beach walk. Vale do Lobo has a huge beach and some covered patios that welcome dogs. Our top pick in the rain is the Ludo Trail, where the birdwatching stations double as shelters.
Eating out in Olhão
Eating out with a dog is much easier here than in the big resort towns. Almost every restaurant we tried on the waterfront welcomed dogs, and locals often bring theirs along. The marina costs a bit more, but the food is very good. Staff are quick to bring water, and umbrellas keep Aba in the shade on hot days.
Good to know
- Bring a transport box if you want to take the ferry to the islands. If your dog hates noise, the speedboat is not a good way to avoid the box.
- Go to the beaches before 9 or after 8. They are usually quite empty then, even in high season.
- Skip the Salinas after rain. Drive to the Ludo Trail or a nearby beach instead.
- Too much salt water gave Aba an eye infection. There are vets and pet shops in town, and the vet clinic we used looked after him very well.
Olhão & Ria Formosa with a dog: questions
Can I take a dog on the ferry from Olhão to Armona or Culatra?
Yes, but only if you bring a transport box, and your dog has to stay in the box for the whole ferry ride. Once you're on the island, you have to store the box somewhere or carry it with you. The speedboats to Armona and Culatra don't require a box, but Aba hated the speedboat because of the noise.
Can my dog go off-leash at the Salinas de Olhão?
We found the Salinas de Olhão a good walk for off-leash sniffing and running. Your dog can have a little off-leash fun there if he is safe around joggers and people on bikes. The Salinas de Olhão loop is short, and you can get there easily from anywhere you stay in Olhão.
Can you walk the Salinas de Olhão after rain?
Often you can't. When it rains, the path through the Salinas de Olhão turns muddy very quickly, to the point where you can't walk it anymore. One of us once lost a shoe there.
Where can I walk my dog around Olhão when it rains?
When it rains in Olhão, your options shrink fast. We found rainy-day walks that you can reach by car. Our top pick is the Ludo Trail, where the bird-watching stations work as small rain shelters.
Where can we eat with a dog in Olhão?
Along the waterfront promenade in Olhão, we found that almost all the restaurants were very welcoming to dogs. Staff in Olhão's restaurants were always ready to bring a bowl of fresh water, and there were almost always umbrellas for shade.