Babacashee
Old quarter, the ferry and Huelva
Ayamonte sits at the mouth of the Guadiana River. Its old medieval quarter has narrow, shaded, car-free streets, and we think it is worth a look. We also recommend the ferry. It is a small traditional boat that crosses the Guadiana to Vila Real de Santo António in Portugal, so you can have a day trip without the car. Dogs are allowed on board, and you don't need a transport box.
For more history, head to Huelva, the provincial capital. It sits between the mouths of the Odiel and Tinto rivers and is much older than Ayamonte. For us it was also a great place to try lots of good food. We found Huelva welcoming enough with a dog, and we think it is definitely worth a visit.
Eating out: tolerated, not welcomed
Plenty of bars and restaurants were happy to seat us outside with Aba, and the food was really good. But it felt more like Aba was tolerated than welcomed. That is absolutely fine. It just feels different from places where dogs are really welcome.
Beaches: Isla Canela and Altura
The closest beach is Isla Canela, about 10 minutes by car. It is beautiful. You can walk for hours on white sand, and we watched some amazing sunsets there. But it is very touristy, with lots of high-end resorts and very little dog friendliness. We rarely saw other dogs, and it did not feel welcoming to us and Aba. In October there was a lot of seaweed-like algae and many jellyfish. We did meet one fluffy dog called Helga, and she made our day.
Altura Beach, on the Portuguese side, is about 20 minutes by car. We would not recommend it with Aba. It is very touristy, with lots of people and no other dogs. It is a sandy strip lined with holiday homes, like a sandy autobahn. There are no dunes, just plain sand running straight on for kilometres. To be honest, we found it really horrible.
Our favourite walk: Sendero Nueva Umbria
We found a great walk a bit further out, about 30 minutes by car on the way to Huelva. The Sendero Nueva Umbria starts just south of the small town of Lepe. You follow a dirt road through moorland, a bit like heath, and cross an old stone bridge. It is beautiful, with moor on both sides, and it is a big sniffing adventure for your dog.
The trail leads to a long, empty beach where you can give your dog lots of off-leash time. We barely met anyone and saw no other dogs at all. If your dog is fine with the odd passing bike, the trail and beach are also great for shy or nervous dogs. It is definitely worth the drive.
Where to stay and getting around
As usual, finding a longer stay with a big dog meant looking at holiday rentals. We found a great townhouse in a good location, with no extra dog fees and a nice roof terrace. Other rentals in Ayamonte allow dogs too, but there aren't many. If you want to stay a week or longer, book early.
The infrastructure is what you would expect in a smaller city. There are vets and shops in town. You do need a car, though, because public transport is not really an option. All the beaches and walks we have covered here are a drive from town, from 10 to 30 minutes.
Our verdict
The town centre is really charming. But in the centre and the surrounding areas we saw litter, some spots felt a bit neglected, and some did not feel very safe at night. The history and the ferry are fantastic. Still, we would not call the town or its beaches very dog friendly. For us Ayamonte is a great day trip rather than a long stay.
Good to know
- You can take a dog on the ferry to Vila Real de Santo António without a transport box.
- Bring a car. Public transport is not really an option.
- For a stay of a week or longer, book a dog-friendly rental early. There aren't many.
- For off-leash time, drive to the Sendero Nueva Umbria near Lepe. The trail leads to a long, empty beach.
Ayamonte with a dog: questions
Can dogs take the ferry from Ayamonte to Portugal?
Yes. The small traditional ferry goes from Ayamonte across the Guadiana to Vila Real de Santo António, and dogs are allowed on board without a transport box.
Where can we eat with a dog in Ayamonte?
We found plenty of bars and restaurants in Ayamonte that were happy to seat Aba outside, and the food was really good. It felt more like they tolerated him than truly welcomed dogs. That was fine for us, but the vibe was different.
Is Isla Canela beach near Ayamonte good for a dog?
Isla Canela beach is beautiful, but it wasn't a good fit for us with Aba. We saw lots of high-end resorts and rarely saw other dogs, and the atmosphere didn't feel welcoming to us and Aba. When we visited in October, there was also a lot of seaweed and many jellyfish.
Where is a good walk for a dog near Ayamonte?
We found a great trail, the Sendero Nueva Umbria, about 30 minutes by car from Ayamonte towards Huelva. It starts just south of Lepe and leads to a long, empty beach where you can have a lot of off-leash time with your dog. We barely met anyone, but your dog should be fine with the occasional bike.
Is it easy to find dog-friendly accommodation in Ayamonte for a longer stay?
In Ayamonte, we found a great townhouse with no extra dog fees and a nice roof terrace. Options are limited, though. If you want to stay a week or longer in Ayamonte with a dog, book early.